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WHERE TO SUNBATHE
While the peninsula on which St.-Tropez is located holds numerous free, public stretches of sand, it's the 30-plus private beach clubs along the Bay of Pampelonne (a few miles outside St.-Tropez proper, in Ramatuelle) that radiate from most postcards and supermarket gossip sheets. For an admission fee (generally $12 to $24), visitors get a long, cushioned chair on the crowded sand. Most clubs have a bar, restaurant and other amenities. Each has a distinct personality and clientele.
Nikki Beach, Route de l'Epi; (33-4) 94.79.82.04. Youthful Champagne-fueled decadence on white canopy beds around a swimming pool.
La Voile Rouge, Route des Tamaris; (33-4) 94.79.84.34. More of the same, though without the pool, for a slightly older and even more moneyed set.
Millesim, Route de Tahiti; (33-4) 94.97.20.99. Buddha statues, Tiki bar and ayurvedic massage make this a nice, Far-Eastern-style antidote to the more hedonistic beaches.
Club 55, Boulevard Patch; (33-4) 94.55.55.55. refined, sedate country-club-like St.-Tropez institution with plenty of celebrity patrons and moneyed families, as well as regular folks.
Key West, Boulevard Patch; (33-4) 94.79.86.58. A local favorite for its relaxed vibe and family-friendly environment, complete with backgammon tables.
Plage de Bouillabaisse is a free, public beach on the west side of the village of St.-Tropez.
WHERE TO DANCE
There's no cover at most St.-Tropez clubs, but that doesn't mean getting in is easy: long lines and selective door policies (i.e., be a woman or have some with you) mean it's best to arrive early. And once you're in, drink prices are stratospheric. Clubs are generally open from 11 p.m. to 5 a.m.
Les Caves du Roy, Hotel Byblos, entrance on Avenue du Maréchal Foch; (33-4) 94.56.68.20.
VIP Room, Résidence du Nouveau Port; (33-4) 94.97.14.70.
Papagayo, Résidence du Nouveau Port; (33-4) 94.97.07.56.
WHERE TO SHOP
Is there a St.-Tropez look? "Make sure you have some cool sunglasses and one good handbag and one great pair of shoes," offers Lee Harrington, a frequent visitor. "And some cleavage." At least three of those things can be purchased along the premier luxury shopping streets in St.-Tropez, Rue Gambetta (Dior, Kenzo) and Rue François Sibilli (Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton). To go incognito, score a man's or woman's Panama hat from Véritable Panama, 5, place des Ramparts, and grab some designer shades at Solaris, 10, rue du Géneral Allard.
SIGHTSEEING
Citadel, Montée de la Citadelle; (33-4) 94.97.59.43. Built under Henri IV in the early 1600's, this four-towered, high-walled fortress offers a commanding view of the region. Its naval museum is closed until 2007. Admission $6.
Musée de l'Annonciade, Place Grammont, Vieux Port; (33-4) 94.17.84.10. The museum celebrates its 50th anniversary with "Éclats du Fauvism" (through Oct. 17), a retrospective of Matisse, Braque, Dufy, Derain and other painters who pioneered the colorful Fauvist movement. Admission $6.75.
Le Brigantin, Quai Suffren in the Vieux Port; (33-6) 07.09.21.27. This sightseeing boat offers multiple daily trips along the lovely St.-Tropez coast with commentary in French and English.
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